Dress code is an important aspect in Chinese costume history. A
dress code refers to a norm regulating dressing behavior. In
Chinese society--ideally conceived as a hierarchical
structure-- the dress code was intended to maintain and promote
the existing social order. However, the implementation of such
a system to have had its problems throughout Chinese history.
The aim of this paper is to examine the extent of compliance
with and discrepancy between the official dress code and the
actual way of dressing during the Ming Dynasty, as well as to
give an account of the possible reasons responsible for the
latter. The official dress code of the Ming Dynasty was chiefly
formulated under the Emperor Hongwu. The system was launched
in February 1368, and perfected in November of the same year.
The system was either enlarged or revised over the years, and
it was not until 1397 that the system was finally completed.
This system also became the standard of the official dress code
under subsequent emperors. Since the Jianwen period (1399-)
onward, apart from the allowance of the qi-lin (unicorn) to be
used on the clothes of the Jinyiwei (military official)
commander in 1453, the addition of the Zhongjing (leisure)
clothes in 1528, the detailed specification of the court and
ritual attire in 1529, and the redefining of the colors and
patterns for ordinary clothing in 1537, the system was seldom
amended and maintained a relatively long continuity.